Some Favorites from Spring/Summer 2014: Thom Browne and Givenchy

Some favorites from the Spring/Summer collections:

I’ve delayed commenting on both the Spring/Summer 2014 collections from Thom Browne and Givenchy mainly because it took some time for me to sort out just what I thought. I knew that both collections struck a chord, but I wasn’t sure how or why they resonated; I keep looking at both collections and have yet to grow tired.

With Browne’s collection, I believe it must be the sense of strength of the pieces, which take so many militaristic references and twist them, when juxtaposed to a high gloss presentation of face that grabs my attention—it’s like Robert Palmer Girl-meets Grace Jones-meets Michael Jackson. This character is simply one I cannot shake, it’s so strong. Several of the pieces themselves aren’t very functional, like the strange crotch additions and the oversized coats, but many more can be incorporated as statement pieces. But, again, it’s the styling and aggressiveness of the pieces that I can’t keep from being drawn to. See more HERE.

In regards to Givenchy, the tribal influence that is crossed with digital, and even analog, technological inspired prints, which also have insect-like forms, keep me thinking. The pieces read future, retro, and ancient all at the same time, and that’s an intriguing idea in regards to clothes to be worn by today’s younger men. I’m also usually partial to face painting, and the make-up on the models captures tribal-meets-digital very nicely. See more HERE

KTZ Spring/Summer 2014

I believe it is simply something about the climate of the world today—the way everything seems to be going to great EXTREMES—for which I enjoy this collection by KTZ for the Spring/Summer 2014. Perhaps by extreme I mean a feeling of culture-clash. With everything happening in the Middle East, and now spreading to Brazil—this unrest of the suppressed—the West is gaining greater access to streams of rebellion, a rebellion that seems almost non-existent in our own culture; hence, the usurping of Middle Eastern and other worldly motifs in our fashion. It’s such a clash of cultures that I find fascinating about this KTZ collection: there are the currents of Middle Eastern garb traditions with the flowing layers and covering of the eyes/face, but there is also a vibe of youth, energy, violence, war (check out the map prints that have a military camo feel), aggression, and mystery—aspects of the collection that aren’t necessarily independent of the next, nor representative of one place or culture. Instead, the KTZ collection interests me, and gets my attention, due to the way the inspiration meets the inspired and the consumer. The wearer gets access to a controlled mode of rebellion, mystery, eccentricity and otherness. And yet, the world is still changing all the same; no matter how comfortable the West gets in the clothes of cultures in turmoil and transformation, the real rebellion will belong—at least for now—to the cultures and societies from which we find inspiration. But at least we are sharing cross-culturally. See more of the KTZ collection HERE and see what you think. 

Agi & Sam Spring/Summer 2014

Inspiration is all around us, even when traveling on a bus. Case in point: Agi and Sam Spring/Summer 2014 collection. Agi and Sam look toward (or should I say underneath their bums) the seemingly tacky--and oftentimes bizarre--prints one finds on the seats of buses. You know, those gas guzzling vehicles full of tourists and teens on fieldtrips. But the team take something overlooked and mundane, and turn it into very interesting, fashion forward pieces. Agi and Sam are also turning the bus-inspired prints into accessories. See more of the collection HERE on Fashionisto and some of the accessories HERE on Selectism.

Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2013

What I enjoy most about the Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2013 collection, as presented on the runway, is probably the neoprene hood/mask. I love the fact the the designer isn't afraid to cover the face of her models, and in a way that incorporates the story of the collection--in this case, the tale of the rape of Persephone. But I also enjoy the use of non-tradtional materials, overall: as seen in the shorts and the jacket below; oh, and not to mention the pants. Even more enjoyable are the finger prints you can see if you look really close at the blue jacket--fantastic. See more of collection HERE on Vogue UK.

AJ Mets Fall 2013: Jacket and Shorts

There is something about this look that just works for me. From AJ Mets Fall 2013 Collection "Imaginary Youth" offers a modern feel, with interesting prints and some bold colors. I enjoy the look, here, because of the color, and the styling (the socks, shoes, with those shorts), but I think the most important aspect of the entire look is the proportions: this is really wonderful, and a feat to pull off due to the fact that you have a jacket matched with a short; the basic white shirt, buttoned all the way, also helps keep the balance. And I enjoy the asymmetry of the jacket; however, my main question is: does it zip. It might be a tight fit if it did, but the illusion--they way the zipper works the eye--is cool, anyway. See more of the collection HERE on Fucking Young!

Gitman Vintage: Konichiwa

Gitman Vintage offers up this creative take on camo: taking Japanese kimono and woodblock art inspirations and compiling a pseudo-camo print as part of their Konichiwa line for the most current collection.  I enjoy the thoughtfulness behind the piece, and it does read camo from afar; however, up close you can see the ukiyo-e vibe. Check out more prints included in Gitman Bros. Spring/Summer 2013 Collection HERE.
Source: Selectism

Kabuki by Jon Jacobsen

This is a great story, shot by Jon Jacobsen, and entitled "Kabuki." But the shoot actually also has a Japanese Noh dance vibe. What I enjoy so much is the styling and make-up, but also the sense of movement. You can see more of the shoot HERE on Morphosis. And check out Jacobsen's site HERE.

Styling & Production: Ulises and Estefania Salas
Make Up: Marcelo Bhanu for Dior
Model is Diogo (New Models Chile)

Givenchy Spring 2014 Pre-Collection

What I enjoy about Givenchy's Spring 2014 Pre-Collection is the mix of floral prints with camo. It's a marriage of the "masculine" and the "feminine" that I think is right for the now we are in. Of course, I also like the flame motif paired with the slacks under a skirt-like piece: reads slightly Middle Eastern to me--this world-meets-street style should continue. A friend of mine recently predicted that we are going to go through a resurrection of fashions from the past, each in succession as they originally appeared. Right now, the '20s; so, the 30's would be next, and so on. I hope this isn't true, or at least, if it is, I hope that the fashions keep it moving forward, even when looking back. And even if this is so, men's fashion should continue playing with "feminine" tropes: What about a male "flapper?" See more of the Givenchy Spring 2014 Pre-Collection HERE on Selectism.

Zana Bayne in VAGA Magazine: Collection VI

The work of Zana Bayne, simply put, is sexy. I enjoy her pieces, and have posted on her in the past. The looks below feature pieces from across the designer's handmade collections, including the most recent Collection VI. The first two shots come from VAGA Magazine out of NYC, captured by Nicolas Wagner. You can see more of that shoot HERE from Fashionisto. 
Be sure to check out the film by Char Alfonzo. 

"Cool Cat:" August Man Magazine

I enjoy using accessories in new and creative ways, like in this edit entitled "Cool Cat" below: Styled by Jonathan Mahaut and shot by Anthony Meyer for Malaysian magazine August Man, Mahaut takes a v-line suspender, and flips it to the front so that V becomes seen, and creates just enough peculiarity that leaves an impression. See more of the shoot HERE.

Victor Dzenk Men's Summer 2013

Victor Dzenk is not afraid of color and/or outlandish prints. His Summer 2013 collection offers radical tropical vibes with pieces, including swimwear, that make it seem that, when worn, you are living within a highly-graphic and lush jungle. You might also check out Dzenk's Fall 2013 collection in which the prints and overall tone is less tropic and more space-age insect armor. See more of the Victor Dzenk Summer 2013 men's collection HERE on Morphosis.

Frankie Morello S/S 2013

Simply enjoy this jumpsuit by Frankie Morello for his S/S 2013 collection. It reminds me of wearing a giant bandana thanks to the print. The look was shot by Ryan Jerome for Glamaholic Mag. See more of the collection on Morello's site HERE. Frankie Morello does cool, easy, young, and glam pieces. See more of the Italian Summer shoot HERE on Homotography.

Tom Rebl Fall/Winter 2013

Tom Rebl takes us on an excursion through a mystical, and smokey, realm of slight whimsy in his Fall/Winter 2013 Lookbook. The Tom Rebl man seems to be a traveler you run into in a dark wood, and you can't tell if you should be scared or happy to have his company. I'm enjoying the prints--both the irregular shapes seen on the black+silver suit as well as the floral number. See more HERE on ThisHeartsOnFire.

Bench/Body Summer 2013 Campaign

Bench/Body is showcasing some prints in their current Summer 2013 campaign. Not only am I enjoying the print on this brief by the Filipino brand, but I'm really digging the styling, which is giving me a Akutagawa-esque vibe for some reason--maybe the leisureliness of it all (although the glasses are very Kobo Abe). 
Source: FuckingYoung!

Tadas by Rex Leung

Something about the seriously short length of these shorts that I like. But I'm also enjoying the shoulder on the sleeveless jacket. This is a fantastic summer uniform--could even go sans boots, but w/ a little loafer or slip-on. See more of this shoot shot by Rex Leung on Morphosis.