Some Favorites from Spring/Summer 2014: Thom Browne and Givenchy

Some favorites from the Spring/Summer collections:

I’ve delayed commenting on both the Spring/Summer 2014 collections from Thom Browne and Givenchy mainly because it took some time for me to sort out just what I thought. I knew that both collections struck a chord, but I wasn’t sure how or why they resonated; I keep looking at both collections and have yet to grow tired.

With Browne’s collection, I believe it must be the sense of strength of the pieces, which take so many militaristic references and twist them, when juxtaposed to a high gloss presentation of face that grabs my attention—it’s like Robert Palmer Girl-meets Grace Jones-meets Michael Jackson. This character is simply one I cannot shake, it’s so strong. Several of the pieces themselves aren’t very functional, like the strange crotch additions and the oversized coats, but many more can be incorporated as statement pieces. But, again, it’s the styling and aggressiveness of the pieces that I can’t keep from being drawn to. See more HERE.

In regards to Givenchy, the tribal influence that is crossed with digital, and even analog, technological inspired prints, which also have insect-like forms, keep me thinking. The pieces read future, retro, and ancient all at the same time, and that’s an intriguing idea in regards to clothes to be worn by today’s younger men. I’m also usually partial to face painting, and the make-up on the models captures tribal-meets-digital very nicely. See more HERE

Simon Spurr Fall/Winter 2011

I'm a sucker for hoods and gloves and these looks by Simon Spurr make it look so right--when it could be considered so wrong: paired with suits. I must say, wearing the longer gloves along with a suit works best when said gloves are black. I'm enjoying the detachable hood very much. See more of Simon Spurr's collection F/W 2011 HERE on this.hearts.on.fire.

Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011

There is much that I enjoy in the latest Lanvin Fall/Winter 2011 collection. The suits with great sheen and fitted with boots are fantastic as are the structurally intriguing pieces such as the grey jacket (belted with high collar) and the grey asymmetrical sweater. There are nice jackets and coats throughout the collection. I'm also enjoying the idea of wearing a turtle neck collar under the standard dress collar. However, for good or for worse, the looks featuring hats, and many times with scarfs, gives me a heavy Quentin Crisp vibe. See more of the collection HERE on Homotography.

Mugler Fall/Winter 2011

The Mugler label is undergoing a mission of revival with the help of Nicola Formichetti. Besides the jackets and coat here, there are some pieces that could actually be worn to add a new dimension to a look--I'm enjoying the gloves with the thumbed-focus. See more HERE on Homotography and read more about the label's revival HERE on Hypebeast.

Jeroen Van Tuyl Spring and Fall 2010

Jeroen Van Tuyl's Spring collection was a bit on the whimsical side, but that is what Spring is about, yes? My favorite look is that of the very deep cut sweater with the light pinkish top underneath. The Fall collection is definitely darker, and I like the emphasis around the shoulders and collar. Again, my favorite look in this collection is the grey sweater, belted, and accessorized with gloves--right on.

Fall collection pics from Fashionisto

Hercules 7: Kai Z. Feng

Great shoot done by Photographer Kai Z. Feng for Hercules Mag #7. There's a vibe of movement in the spread and I think it is great that Feng used b/w and color. Great shots.

And the styling is fantastic with the use of some Jil Sanders, Dior Homme, and THE GLOVES featured are right on. It's getting chilly out, and we will probably be seeing more gloves in shoots to come this season.

Hercules 7 out soon